First time into the Bundus

On Tuesday we left Windhoek on our first mission into the unknown, at least it was unknown to us. We started on the road North via familiar towns like Okahandja, Otjiwarongo and Outjo.

From Outjo we followed the GPS directions to our first stop and headed west. We saw amazing landscapes and rock formations. One that we will remember for a while is the one remaining Vingerklip (Rock Finger) of Namibia.

On this picture it looks more like an upside-down canyon.

Trying to reach our first official stop at Okonguarri, we were reminded that one cannot trust in only a GPS’s directions. The GPS sent us on the road closest to the farm but we could not find an entrance road. When we did find an entrance the roads became un-drivable, even for our trusted Fortuner. After battling for a couple hours to find the correct entrance, we realised that we need to get to a suitable camping site before dark.

We drove 25 km back to the Vingerklip Lodge to enquire about accommodation and were shocked at the rates; definitely aimed at attracting Euros rather than Rands. The only camping site was about 30 km away and it was getting dark, so we decided to bite the bullet and spent the night in style. We both agreed that it was well worth it.

After hobnobbing for a night we had to get back to reality and after a couple phone calls we found the missing farm and completed our work around midday. Our next official stop would be Mowani Mountain Camp in the Twyfelfontein area, about 120 km further west but more than 200 km per dirt road.

The road took us through Khorixas (pronounced: Korrigas) and past the Petrified Forest . We just had to find out what the tree were petrified of, so we made a quick stop and found a number of huge trees that were turned into rocks when they were buried between 2,000 and 6,000 years ago.

We were also surprised to see many Welwitschia plants dotted around the area.

When we arrived at Mowani Mountain Camp it was getting late and we immediately asked for a camp site to prepare for the night. The camp site was placed behind a hill of huge boulders, far from the lodge and was really stunning. We set up our field office and though we had good cell phone signal, could not connect to the Internet.

On Thursday, after taking care of the official business at Mowani Mountain Camp, we headed for the Twyfelfontein area where we visited the Twyfelfontein Country Lodge and also the Twyfelfontein Namibian Heritage site which is renowned for its extensive collection of rock paintings and engravings.

Our next stop was a little village called Bergsig where we met Pia Isaacks, a community councillor, who was very helpful. From here we headed West on the C39 to Springbokwasser, the gate to the Skelton Coast National Park. Once again we were surprised at the multitudes of Welwitschias next to the road.

At Springbokwasser we found very friendly officials at the gate and was offered a free camp site for the night. They have a fully featured campsite since the gate into, and out of, the Park is only open during daylight hours; travellers who arrive outside these hours are then usually given free camping for the night.

We managed to find a spot behind a pole fence where the wind was less severe. We set up camp and while preparing some steaks and a lovely vegetable stew, we enjoyed the changing colours of the setting sun. That night after midnight it got really cold; apparently it gets worse as you get closer to the coast.

After completing our business the next morning we headed back east on the C39 to Wêreldsend, where the IRDNC (Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation NGO) have a facility where the promote rural involvement with conservation. On the way there we saw some tracks in the road and later realised that is was Black Rhino spoor.

The road to our next stop, at Palmwag, must have some of the most amazing scenery for somebody who loves the rugged beauty of Namibia. I always thought these remote areas of Damaraland and Kaokoveld are more or less flat. In fact there are some stunning table top and sharp hills.

The region recently had extensive rains and most of the streams have left their mark on the roads. At Palmwag we set up camp for the weekend and got time to recuperate from all the driving on some very bumpy dirt roads. Our campsite had a shade net and we managed to make a private living area.

During the weekend we managed to bake a bread and banana bread in our metal box oven, as well as real vetkoek.

When we eventually left Palmwag on Monday, we stayed on the better roads and headed for Kamanjab. We were very impressed with the Sentra shop where one can find most things one might need on a trip into Damaraland. We stocked up on blitz, cool drinks, tin foil and yoghurt.

Our first official stop was south of Kamanjab on the Huab river and from there we went to Otjivasandu, a ranger station inside the restricted area of the Etosha Game park. Usually only registered tour operators get access to this part of Etosha. We were quite amused at some of the warning signs along the road.

From Otjivasandu we went looking for our next stop which was supposed to be 9 km away but found that we had to drive a 100 km detour to get there. We fortunately had another option and were greeted with open arms by Dano and his mother Suzaan at Rustig Toko Lodge. They insisted that we stay in a room and gave us a home cooked dinner and their special hospitality. We were treated to a sundowner trip and enjoyed the changing colours of sunset of the plains.

Our next journey took us on the back roads, about 10 km South of the Etosha Game Park’s southern fence to Eagle Tented Camp and Epacha Game Lodge. Once again we were surprised by the luxurious finishes of these lodges, so far from civilisation, as we know it.

We spent the night at Etosha Safari Camp, about 10 km South of the Andersson Gate into Etosha, and headed back to Windhoek the next morning. Thursday was a public holiday in Namibia, which gave us time to catch up on some admin.

We are staying at Arebbusch self catering chalets, on the outskirts of Windhoek, till we are sent on another excursion into some part of this spectacular country.